#Navcoder full version install#
Since I’m doing it I will make it with circuits & outputs for the extra 2 sets of lights I plan to install (replace fogs and on a bar – if I can get one) so install of those is just plug in. I have decided to make another box – it’s nearly the same schematic as the one I made for the LED trailer lights, wiring will be much heavier and use 40amp relays. I will run these HIDs with a relay and it’s not much extra to solve the error with a resistor for the time being (a relay with the resistor built in like narva 68028 might have issues with heat). I’m going to do some more research on a diognostic kit to buy. Not sure if the dealer would do it for me or whether it is worth the $ for testing… I also confirmed that a resistor will stop the Error message. The only tools I’ve been able to find that can change these settings is BBS MSV-2 and a little app called NavCoder which only reads and writes modules on the iBus (no Diagnostic capabilities). There is also Main Beam Lights Monitor which is whether the lights are monitored when turned off, So I assume that theoretically it is possible to monitor the light only when turned on and if you have a kit that will run through the harness that could be handy, because once the HID started the Error message cleared itself, so if the first setting was left as true and the second set to 0 you should not see error when turned off and should test Ok when on. The actual name of the setting that needs to be changed is Main Beam Failure: This denotes if a failure of the main beam lights will be notified or not. So they will work off a relay, and I bet the warm up time will be significantly shorter than a kit working through the harness.Įrror message (Check Main Beam).
Once warm (less than 3 sec) it draws 4.6 at 12.5v. For the record, this 55w kit I have draws 11.2amp at start up for one globe :eek: - that is running it off the camper Andersen plug so it would be less with the engine running and 14v in the system instead of 12.5ish but it is still high. Besides the point of this is for more light, so I want 55s (the one fitted is absurdly brighter than the halogen in the other side). This may be fixed by a different 35w kit but I’m not going to spend any more $ on HID kits hoping they might work, some obviously do, but which, I don’t know. So the LCM and factory harness can’t supply enough current to start it. I did provide it with another + feed (wire from the jump stud) while it was trying to start and it started and continued to run once the 2nd feed had been removed…. The voltage at the ballast drops to 11.4 when it is trying to start, and that is with the engine running, I thought that it was tripping the thermo breaker (built in to the LCM) but it’s not, it’s the ballast resetting that causes the flashing. Graeme is on the money – there is too mush draw for the LCM. Ok I’ll answer my own because someone else asked too, more testing results from tonight. I wish ARB would do a D3 modified bar for the 元22 ,the SRS activation can't be that dis-similar :mellow: that it would require starting from scratch with all those involved costs.
#Navcoder full version upgrade#
Then these are about general LED conversions.į - View topic - led upgrade ()į - View topic - LED Hi-Beams - With Pics ()į - View topic - Cluster Pixel Repair and White LED Upgrade with pics ()į - View topic - Wing mirror bulbs/LEDs ()į - View topic - LED Upgrades () Well worth a read.į - View topic - xenon 6000k ()į - View topic - Fog Light HID Upgrade ()į - View topic - LED Bulbs () I was trying to sort out lights for my upcoming car and found these threads that cover headlights,fog lights and LED bulb replacements. At this stage I assume that a bypass & shunt circuit is needed similar to the LED trailer light solution, or am I missing something? When connected I get the “Check Main Beam” message on the dash, and when turned on it flashes. Has anyone played with HID kits for the Fillers? I have a 55w H7 Slimline kit, I know the kit is good. Change the Highbeam fillers (2nd set of light that come on for high) with HID.Īctually I’d like to do all 3… So I’ve started at #3 mainly after reading () and the d4 owners reportings that it is simple. Hella have a new product that should fit in as a replacement for the fogs in the bumper, it is a high beam light that would be connected as per driving lights, fit a resistor in the empty fog light harness to stop the dash messages.ģ.
Fit a good bulbar with lights and UHF aerial, hahaĢ. This would be easy if one could purchase a decent front bar to hang a couple of lights off – I would even have a soft factory ABar but the only thing I can find is one of those ugly wrap around things – (can’t do it)…ġ. I’m now on a quest to improve the pathetic high beam lights on the 元22 (2004).
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